I arrived with a list of viewpoints and left having seen almost none of them. The lake changed colour every hour, and that turned out to be the whole trip.

Mornings were for the shoreline path before the day-trippers arrived. Afternoons were for reading on the jetty and pretending I was not cold. Evenings ended at the one small restaurant in the village.

If you go: book a room with a balcony, bring layers even in summer, and skip the cable car on a cloudy day — the trail is better anyway.